First Look:
The Moshulu (May 14-20, 2003)
by A.D. Amorosi
For a 99-year-old, touristy locale, the Moshulu has become the
hippest thing around town, or, rather, in the water. New owner
Marty Grims (Tango, Passerelle) and designer Barbara Balongue
(Bourbon Blue) took the Moshulu from Polynesian kitsch to a
multilayered set of restaurants, subtle and stately in tone
and texture, luxurious yet relaxed in attitude. Please
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"Chef Ralph Fernandez delivers
a deft New American menu aboard the MOSHULU," says LaBan,
who credits Fernandez and his partners with invigorating what
had become a tourist trap - a century - old ship permanently
docked on the Delaware River. The Elegant space is drawing diners
with dishes like Long Island duck breast in cider sauce with
bacon-braised root vegetables. (Penn's Landing, 401 South Columbus
Boulevard: 215-923-2500)
